It had been an emotional week back in Sydney connecting with friends, and no matter how many well wishes and reassurances, the timing of leaving again was less than ideal.
We both carried heavy hearts. That sadness, along with jet lag, meant that in Puerto Vallarta we were mostly looking forward to a relaxed, uneventful “sunny and pleasant” stay at the beach. The forecast was more than accommodating and driving in from the airport, we knew what we were in for. It only took a few hours of exploring to see that PV was much more energetic, and this tourist town was anything but relaxed and uneventful. Our Airbnb in the Zona Romantica was perfect with rooftop views, pool and hot tubs; and within walking distance of some amazing table-side guacamole, roasted salsa and margaritas. This wasn’t the Puerto Vallarta we expected. It was much more “gringo and gay” and probably just what the doctor ordered.
Unexpectedly, we overlapped with our friends Avelino and Peter who organised our first dinner at Café des Artistes. They had been on holiday from San Francisco celebrating a special birthday and let us crash their last night in this beautiful spot. It was the perfect transition into the travel mode -- great food, great atmosphere and fantastic company. The rest of our time we ran into pics of the birthday boy around PV. Hilarious! Thanks boys.
Café des Artistes was just the beginning of the food orgy we would continue to throw ourselves into across PV. Highlights included the street side taco stand, the tourist hot spot with guacamole and oversized anything alcoholic, ceviche on the beach, the perfect tacos al pastor from a home-cooking-hole-in-the-wall, and our daily morning coffees with homemade pastries. Los Vallartenses know how to keep the taste buds happy. . . and fortunately Montezuma had no revenge.
Unlike some of our other tourist mecca experiences, we found the locals of PV co-exist easily with visitors. Sure there is loads of unease at real-estate development and crowds of non-Spanish-speaking nomads wandering past and peering into family’s front doors; but overall people were helpful, engaging and not as transactional as some of our other stops. Considering the opinion of their neighbours to the North, we saw our share of piss-takes at "the wall"contrasting the beautiful vistas, beaches and architecture . The street vendors were mostly non-aggressive and entertainment at the local Parque Lazaro Cardenas was free. We watched a troupe of all-ages folkloric dancers perform with the precision of professionals. It would have been worth the cost of a ticket.
The biggest surprise for both of us was the “gayness” of it all. Even though we had done our share of Sunday tea dances, New Orleans Halloweens, Sydney Mardi Gras events and even Folsom Street Fair when living in San Francisco, PV was like something we hadn’t experienced in many years. There was an old school feel with everyone out to just have a good time – all ages, all sizes, all races – no attitude. We saw a fun drag performance at a local theatre, wandered into a male burlesque show and even managed to have a late night out at the bars! This was definitely a throwback. It was refreshing, and easy to see why so many Canadians and US gay retirees have invested here. 65 isn’t too far away for one of us . . . hmmmmmmm . . .
The highlight of PV was the addition of 1 to the 2times25 adventure. Our good friend Rick joined us for a few days on his way to a training event in SF. It adds a different perspective to experience a place through some one else’s eyes and being together for 25 years, it's good to get another opinion. We hung out on his Airbnb rooftop, at the beach, wandered the streets and had a really special meal at The Iguana Restaurant & Tequila Bar. This PV legend is part of Casa Kimberly, the combined homes of Elizabeth Taylor and Richard Burton now updated to a luxury boutique hotel. It was camp fun with loads of photo ops including an oversized portrait of the violet-eyed Elizabeth (as it is said she preferred to be called) and a bronze statue of the two lovebirds.
More than sunny and pleasant, more than gay and gringo, Puerto Vallarta is a bit of everything. If we had known, we would have made the stop sooner, but really glad we put it on the itinerary. It was pure hedonism and just what the doctor ordered.
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